Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Digiscoping

Digiscoping

Digiscoping is a method of taking photographs using a digital camera along with a spotting scope. When looking for the proper spotting scope for your digital camera, consider choosing a scope that contains any or all of the following features: high definition (HD), apochromatic (APO) glass (glass that has been cleared of color and shape distortions), and extra-low dispersion and fluorite components.
In short, digiscoping is an updated version of traditional telescope photography practices. If you are planning to use digiscoping methods, experts suggest that you stick to smaller lens, as they keep focus better.
However, you will need more equipment that merely the digital camera and the scoping lens if you plan to properly digiscope. An adapter that connects the scope to the camera, a tripod, a cable release and a computer are all other essential tools that can ensure you will correctly implement digiscoping. Other helpful tools include extra batteries and memory cards, as well as imaging software products for your computer.
Digiscoping is often used for wildlife shots or any other pictures in which the photographer has to telescope the object being photographed. Ideally, digiscoping should be used on a still object, rather than one that’s in motion.

Contre-jour

Contre-jour

Contre-jour, a French word meaning “against the light,” refers to the manner of taking a photograph in which a camera more or less faces the light source. In Italian, the technique of contre-jour is known as chiaroscuro, meaning “light-dark.” The Italian term refers to the contrast produced by the interplay of shadow and light that contre-jour produces.
Contre-jour photographs often will render the central object as a darker silhouette that is surrounded by a soft, halo-esque light. This technique emphasizes the backlight of the photo which leaving the main image with less detail and definition.
Contre-jour tends to emphasize an object’s size, shape and lines. Moreover, it adds a dramatic effect to the photo by clearly defining the object’s borders while illuminating it from behind. The contrast between light and shadow that occurs with the contre-jour technique can add a grave and serious tone to any photograph.
One pitfall associated with contre-jour portraits involves the possibility that the resulting photo will pick up glare because the camera directly faces with the light source. Experts recommend using a lens hood to reduce the glare.
Contre-jour is most often used in nature, landscape or cityscape shots

Choosing Camera Lense

Choosing Camera Lense

Choosing camera lenses demands both knowledge of and experience with different types of camera lenses. Although knowing which lenses work best in given conditions is important, a photographer also chooses a particular lens to produce a specific photographic effect. Light, composition and subject matter of a scene all influence photographers’ choices of lenses.
Wide-Angle Lens

Although some will take landscape shots with telephoto lenses, most photographers opt for the wide-angle lens. Because a wide-angle lens has a wider field of vision than the human eye, it can take in more of a topographical expanse. Consequently, the wide-angle lens is one of the preferred landscape camera lenses.
A wide-angle lens can focus on the foreground and background simultaneously, another ability that the human eye lacks. Wide-angle camera lenses are best for large, dynamic landscapes where background and foreground both catch the eye’s attention. However, a photographer should refrain from using a wide-angle lens if he wants to focus in on the details of a single, distinct subject.
Zoom Lens

A zoom lens allows the photographer to widen or shorten the lens’ focal length to increase or decrease the magnification of the subject. This feature makes the zoom lens a popular camera accessory in many types of photography, ranging from landscape to portrait photography. However, because zoom lenses have small apertures (or lens openings), they are not well suited to taking pictures in low-light conditions.
Zoom lenses have replaced the fixed focal length camera lens in most camera models, especially with the advent of digital cameras. When choosing camera lenses, bear in mind that an optical zoom lens and a digital zoom lens are different.
While an optical zoom lens magnifies the image, a digital zoom lens crops the image after the maximum zoom is reached. Essentially a digital zoom enlarges and crops the image seen in the viewfinder instead of magnifying the subject. This digital enlargement results in lower resolution and, therefore, a poorer quality image.
When choosing camera lenses with zoom capabilities, photographers should look for high optical zoom capabilities rather than being deceived by claims about digital zoom capability. Pictures are of much better quality with an optical zoom lens.
Telephoto Lens

The difference between a zoom lens and a telephoto lens is subtle. A zoom lens enlarges and magnifies the image. In contrast, a telephoto lens brings the subject “closer” to the photographer, reducing the distance between objects in the photograph and the camera’s lens. This allows a telephoto lens to show greater detail than the human eye could see at the same distance.
Fixed-Focal Length Camera Lens

A fixed-focal length camera lens is a permanent, non-adjustable lens found on some low to mid-range quality cameras. Often (but not always) doubling as a wide-angle lens, fixed-focal lenses tend to work well for low-light photos.
A fixed-focal length lens can do wonders for beginning photographers by helping them learn the art of photography. Without zoom capabilities, the photographer must give more thought to basic photography composition to produce good quality shots. Consequently, a budding photographer may learn the basics of good photography faster if by choosing a fixed-focal length lens.
Fixed-focal length camera lenses are less common than they once were, in part because most mid-range digital cameras now have built-in zoom lenses.
The Macro Lens

A macro lens is used to take extreme close ups of objects. Its short focal length allows the photographer to take pictures at close distances without distortions. The resulting image is as large as, or larger, than the original subject.
Choosing a macro lens has been complicated by digital camera settings. Originally, a macro lens was an extension tube for the camera lens. However, today’s digital cameras often have a macro setting. Although the setting replaces the traditional lens, it stillproduces the same effect as the previous macro lenses.
Macro lenses or macro settings are best used for magnifying the details of already smallobjects. For example, a photographer can use his macro setting to photograph ripples in water, the dew on a flower petal or the crevices of a rock.
Fisheye Lens

Fisheye camera lenses distort the subject image, producing photos with curved and convex appearances. The fisheye lens was first developed for astronomy photography that seeks to capture as wide a range of sky as possible.
Today, the fisheye lens has become popular with landscape photographers, as the lens distortion curves horizons and hints at the earth’s curve. A portrait of a person taken with a fisheye lens has the distortion similar to what’s seen when looking through a door’speephole.
Front of Lens Accessories

Choosing among different camera lenses isn’t an issue for most mid-range cameras because they already have built-in lenses that cannot be changed. While single lens reflex (SLR) cameras have interchangeable lenses, their steeper prices tend to make them a tool for professionals or serious amateur photographers.
For the hobbyist who doesn’t have an SLR camera, front of lens accessories that mimic the effects of certain lenses are available. A front of lens accessory is a disc that clips onto the front of a camera lens to provide specific effects. While some front of lens accessories filter out light, others mimic the effect of a wide-angle or fisheye lens.
Photos taken with a lens clip on accessory lack the quality of those taken with camera lenses designed for the same effect. As choosing a lens is not possible with many cameras, front of lens accessories increase the average photographer’s options.

Bokeh

Bokeh
Bokeh refers to the technique of blurring an image to add to the aesthetic quality of a photograph. The word bokeh, derived from the Japanese word “boke” (pronounced “bo-keh”), literally translates to ‘fuzziness’. When a photographer wants to make an image appear softer, bokeh will put the object slightly out of focus without completely destroying the integrity of it’s definition.
Often, bokeh is confused with the idea of a picture’s “sharpness.” Rather than describing the point of focus, however, bokeh is the blurring of the background or foreground.
When an image within a camera’s lens is “in focus,” the camera has positioned the image at the point where most of the light has converged on the image to a fine point. Yet, if an image appears out of focus, then the light appears as a blurred disc, rather than a focused point. To create bokeh in a picture is to put the image out of focus without making it unrecognizable.
When bokeh is used incorrectly, a picture will render a combination of sharply defined lines combined with blurriness.
To the contrary, correctly performed bokeh produces an image with no sharp edges. Instead, the fuzziness produced by bokeh suggests the image without distinct borders.

Air Brushing

Air Brushing
Air brushing refers to the photographic editing technique in which an image is retouched and smoothed over to improve picture quality. While air brushing has been done long before the advent of digital photography, digital imaging and editing programs, such as Adobe Photoshop, have made the use of air brushing much easier and more accessible to amateur photographers.
Although air brushing may be used in a various types of photography, it is most commonly employed in glamour photography, wedding photography and portraiture. For example, when a photographer wants to brush out the imperfections of a model’s face (e.g. acne or scars), he will air brush the image to make it appear smoother.
In particular circumstances, entire people or other details of a scene can be wiped out, altering the original image entirely. For this reason, documentary photographers and photojournalists alike heavily discourage and frown upon the implementation of air brushing in their respective fields. Similarly, any area of photography in which the integrity of the image is crucial to the resulting photograph will avoid air brushing or any other digital editing technique.

Advanced Photo System

Advanced Photo System
Advanced Photo System (APS) refers to the 24 mm film that is the standard format for still photography. There are three different types of APS film that are classified as either “H,” “C” or “P.” In this system, “H” stands for HDTV format, “C” for classic format and “P” for panoramic format. Apart from the occasional disposable camera, nearly all APS cameras come equipped to record in each of these formats.
In the HDTV and classic mode of advanced photo systems, the film records the image in a particular aspect ratio that can then be reprinted in a variety sizes.
Unlike other film formats, APS film can record more that just the image. Along with the visual details of a given scene, APS film can also document the date, time, a caption and details related to how the shot was captured (i.e. the particular setting of the shutter speed or aperture).
The film generally records this information in “magnetic IX” or “optical IX” modes. While higher end cameras use the magnetic IX method, less expensive cameras, such as disposable cameras, tend to use the optical IX version of information storage. Because the magnetic IX mode is only available on more expensive cameras, it accurately records more information.

Auto Backlight Control

Auto Backlight Control
Auto Backlighting Control (ABC) refers to a feature on a camera that automatically adjusts a camera’s settings to accommodate the backlighting of a given frame. When turned on, the ABC setting can set the camera’s flash, aperture and shutter timer to compensate for the lighting conditions in the scene.
Photographers should only turn on the auto backlighting control if they want to accentuate the quality of backlighting in their pictures. Backlighting gives photos a mysterious, intriguing quality.
If the backlight within the camera’s lens is dull (and the film is of normal speed), then the auto backlighting control will widen the aperture, make the flash brighter and extend the shutter timer. The point of each of these settings is to ensure that the film receives enough light possible. With less light available in the scene, the ABC setting will open up every possible avenue of light on the camera to try to capture the image.
Conversely, if the backlighting of a scene is brighter, the auto backlighting control (ABC) will adjust the camera’s settings so that less light enters the camera’s lens. As a result, the aperture will be constricted, the flash will dampen and shutter time will be shorter.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Glamour Photography

Glamour photography is a sexy, romantic form of photography meant to be erotic without being pornographic. Posing for glamour shots has been common for models and movie stars for years. Because of glamour photography’s allure, many advertisements use glamour photography to catch people’s eyes and interest.
Because glamour photography is featured in magazines, advertisements and other widely circulated mediums, it is a lucrative industry. Consequently, many institutions of higher learning offer course (or degrees) in glamour photography.
Glamour Photography History
Glamour photography is redefined by every generation depending on the social and political currents of the time. In the 1940s, pictures of “pinup” girls were considered glamourous. Pictures of Betty Grable, one of the most popular glamour photography models, were carried to war by hundreds of GIs. Glamour photography from the war era featured models either fully clothed or wearing swimsuits.
Over time, glamour photography has become more risquT. By the 1960s, models were posing for glamour shots in skimpier clothing, smaller bathing suits, lacy lingerie or partially nude.
Women have most often been the subject of glamour photography, probably because men were usually behind the camera! While today women are still posing for glamour shots more than men, men are gaining a stronger presence in the realm of glamour photography.
Glamour Photography is Not Pornographic
While posing for glamour photography can mean posing nude or partially clothed, glamour photography is not intended to be pornography. At most, glamour photography consists of erotic pictures taken within a general consensus of good taste. A full evening gown can be just as much a part of glamour photography as a nude photo that tastefully hides the model’s genitals.
Glamour photography relies on the power of suggestion, alluding to curves and erogenous zones without actually showing graphic details. Consequently, glamour photos carry a tone of mystery and romance, as much as physical allure. Playfulness is also a key part of part of glamour photography, as if the model were flirting with the viewer. The crudeness of pornography should not be part of a glamour photography shoot.
While the model is the central feature of glamour photos, other aspects light lighting and soft filters are key to producing a professional looking glamour shot. Like fashion photography, glamour photography locations are either in studio or at exotic locations.
For example, Maxim is one of the more popular magazines that exhibits glamour photography. In contrast, Playboy is a more pornographic magazine and, therefore, not considered to be a display of glamour photography.
Why Glamour Photography?
Why is posing for glamour photo shots so popular? People become interested in glamour photography for many reasons. While models may wish to pose for glamour shots for their job portfolios, advertisers use glamour photos to sell their products.
Sometimes, glamour photos are for personal rather than commercial use. The person posing for glamour shots may intend to give someone special the photo as a present. Others may enjoy posing for glamour shots to get a taste of being the center of a glamorous life. Being the center of a photo shoot, made up with alluring clothing, can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience.
Posing for Glamour Shots
Posing for glamour shots requires that the model trust and feel comfortable with the photographer, especially if the person being photographed is not used to modeling. Most people feel self-conscious and possibly silly posing for glamour shots. Experienced photographers are considerate, striving to create a trusting, comfortable atmosphere.
Talk with potential photographers before posing for glamour shots. Discuss what types of poses, dress and attitude you want the resulting photos to contain. Do you want the glamour photography to have a mysterious or nostalgic theme? Do you want to present a loved one with a “cheesecake” or “beefcake” photo? Or do you have a specific theme in mind?
The Cheesecake or Beefcake Picture
A cheesecake photo refers to an erotic photo of a scantily dressed woman that is meant to be a pinup photo. Similarly, a beefcake shot is a seductive picture of a male for pinup purposes
Preparing for a Glamour Photography Shoot
Before going into the shoot, assess the degree to which you’re comfortable with nudity or partial nudity. If you aren’t comfortable with something, let the photographer know before the shoot. A photographer who tries to “force” the shoot by insisting on certain conditions isn’t the best choice for amateurs posing for glamour shots.
However, once you’ve discussed your intentions and limits, trust the photographer. Listen to his direction during the glamour photography shoot–you’re paying him for his professional expertise, after all. You can also collaborate with him by offering your own suggestions. Posing for glamour shots can be a fun experience that may provide you with photos you (and others) will never forget.
Glamour photography has been around since at least World War II when American GIs took pinup pictures of Betty Grable to war. Since then, posing for glamour photographs has become a popular way to present a spouse or loved one with a uniquely sexy photo. While glamour photography can include nude shots, more often it features a partially or even fully clothed model.
Glamour photographers of note are Herb Ritts, Beverley Goodway and Harrison Marks. Similarly, famous glamour models include Bettie Page, Lena Li and Sydney Moon.

Fine Art Photography

Fine Art Photography

Fine Art Photography, also known simply as art photography, refers to the branch of photography dedicated to producing photos for purely aesthetic purposes. Fine art photography, housed in museums and galleries, is mainly concerned with presenting beautiful objects or ordinary objects in beautiful ways to convey intensity and emotion.

Much of art photography is produced in limited quantities and, at times, is used in advertisements or magazines.

However, because each person has an individual view of what constitutes beauty, deciphering what is or isn’t fine art photography is entirely subjective. Another challenge in the world of fine art photography is the fact that photography is a relatively new medium of art, as compared to painting or music.

While it can be aligned with fashion photography, fine art photography generally lies in opposition to documentary photography that exists primarily for utilitarian purposes.

Many colleges and universities offer undergraduate and graduate programs in fine art photography. Some of the more noted fine art photographers include Albert Sands, Timothy O’Sullivan and Carleton Watkins.

Darkroom Construction

Darkroom Construction
Maney photographers crave their own darkroom to process pictures. If you are building your own darkroom, don’t fret! It’s easier than you think. Even a beginner can turn a garage or an extra room into a darkroom dream-come-true.
The basic requirements for a darkroom are running water, light blockage, a dry area to dry your pictures and sturdy work surfaces. To lightproof a darkroom, start by blocking any windows with black masking tape, aluminum foil and a blackout shade. Then hang a blackout shade in front of the door that extends to the floor and beyond the door’s sides.
Darkroom Photographic Supplies
Divide your space into a Dry Side for printing and a Wet Side for chemical processing.
Darkroom Equipment: Dry Side
film tanks and reels
an enlarger
a light-tight paper safe
a safe light
a timer
an easel
a grain magnifier
a paper cutter
a dodging and burning kit to darken or lighten areas of a picture
sufficient storage space
a safelight near the enlarger
a print dryer
a place to hang the film to dry.

Darkroom Equipment: Wet Side
running water
a sink at least five feet long
one deep tray with holes on one side
a short hose from faucet to deep tray
four smaller trays, preferably 11”x14”
print tongs
film clips for hanging processed film to dry
small, medium and large graduates for mixing chemicals
6 to 10 large dark bottles for chemical storage
surgical gloves and face masks
a safelight over the trays.

Darkroom Photo Enlarger

Although you can get a good photo enlarger for as little as $200, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If cost is an issue, check auction sites that have good used equipment. Make sure that the enlarger you purchase has a standard lens mount, an option for a glass-less negative carrier. Also the bulbs the enlarger uses are affordable and easily obtained in your area.

Darkroom Chemicals and Safety
Ventilation is very important. While you can install a lightproof extraction fan above the “wet” area, this is an expensive method. A cheaper alternative is to use a range hood or conventional extraction fan, such as those used in a kitchen or bathroom. These fans can be purchased from a building supply warehouse.
If you have pets and children, be sure to store photographic chemicals in a secure place with the caps tightly sealed to prevent spillage.

Darkroom Construction

Darkroom Construction
Maney photographers crave their own darkroom to process pictures. If you are building your own darkroom, don’t fret! It’s easier than you think. Even a beginner can turn a garage or an extra room into a darkroom dream-come-true.
The basic requirements for a darkroom are running water, light blockage, a dry area to dry your pictures and sturdy work surfaces. To lightproof a darkroom, start by blocking any windows with black masking tape, aluminum foil and a blackout shade. Then hang a blackout shade in front of the door that extends to the floor and beyond the door’s sides.
Darkroom Photographic SuppliesDivide your space into a Dry Side for printing and a Wet Side for chemical processing.
Darkroom Equipment: Dry Side
film tanks and reels an enlarger a light-tight paper safe a safe light a timer an easel a grain magnifier a paper cutter a dodging and burning kit to darken or lighten areas of a picture sufficient storage space a safelight near the enlarger a print dryer a place to hang the film to dry. Darkroom Equipment: Wet Side
running water a sink at least five feet long one deep tray with holes on one side a short hose from faucet to deep tray four smaller trays, preferably 11”x14” print tongs film clips for hanging processed film to dry small, medium and large graduates for mixing chemicals 6 to 10 large dark bottles for chemical storage surgical gloves and face masks a safelight over the trays. Darkroom Photo EnlargerAlthough you can get a good photo enlarger for as little as $200, keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If cost is an issue, check auction sites that have good used equipment. Make sure that the enlarger you purchase has a standard lens mount, an option for a glass-less negative carrier. Also the bulbs the enlarger uses are affordable and easily obtained in your area.
Darkroom Chemicals and SafetyVentilation is very important. While you can install a lightproof extraction fan above the “wet” area, this is an expensive method. A cheaper alternative is to use a range hood or conventional extraction fan, such as those used in a kitchen or bathroom. These fans can be purchased from a building supply warehouse.
If you have pets and children, be sure to store photographic chemicals in a secure place with the caps tightly sealed to prevent spillage.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Fashion Photography

Fashion Photography
Fashion Photography is the area of photography that concentrates on taking pictures of clothing or accessories (on models or alone) to be published in fashion magazines, advertisements or circulated among designers

Baron Adolphe de Meyer is credited as the first fashion photographer. In 1913, Meyer took the first fashion photographs for Vogue. Modern fashion photography can be done with a commercial or aesthetic twist. Fashion shots tend to be taken in exotic locales with dramatic lighting.
Some of the more noted fashion photographers include Phillipe Halsman, Helmut Newton and Herb Ritts. Vogue, Bizarre and Life magazines have all been noted sources of fashion photography.
Fashion photography tends to be a credible watermark of beauty ideals of a given era, as well as an indicator of the political and social climate. For example, with the enduring Iraq War, fashion trends (and, consequently, fashion photography) display a remarkable increase in fatigue-print clothing.

Documentary Photography

Documentary PhotographyDocumentary Photography refers to the area of photography in which pictures are used as historical documents. Rather than serving as a source of art or aesthetic pleasure, documentary photography is often used to incite political and social change due to its ability to capture the “true” nature of an image or location. In simple terms, this school of photography uses pictures as documented evidence of a particular situation.
Lewis Hine and James Van DerZee are two of the pioneers of documentary photography. While documentary and artistic photography are considered to be at opposite ends of the spectrum, Paul Strand is one of the few photographers famous for slyly blending these two opposing schools through his avant-garde style.
Oftentimes, pictures taken in the vein of documentary photography tend to be shocking, grotesque, vivid and intense to prove a point and evoke a viewer’s emotions. Some of the most common examples of documentary photographs are featured in modern newspapers and magazines.
Through these images, the public learns truth information about cultural, political and environmental situations. Given this fact, it is no surprise that documentary photography exploded into the American consciousness during the Great Depression of 1930s when photographers were documenting the pervasive poverty.

War Photography and Combat Photography

War Photography and Combat Photography
War photography changed how people perceived war and how news publications reported armed conflict. While people may not fully understand the grim reality of war by reading a news article, they often immediately grasp it by viewing graphic pictures of war.
War photography has always been controversial, both in terms of the explicit nature of combat photography and potential military censorship of images. Both issues are as true to day as they were when Mathew Brady’s team first took pictures of the American Civil War during the 1860s.
War Photography HistoryThe American Civil War marked the first time a team of photographers took pictures of war. The resulting photos of battle and death shocked the public, who were used to seeing war portrayed as a romantic, noble endeavor.
While combat photography had been around for over a century before World War I, not many pictures were taken during this war due to extensive military censorship. Combat photography during World War II prompted both patriotism and public outrage, culminating in the horrific pictures of the Nazi concentration camps.
Since the Second World War, war photos have become almost commonplace. The Vietnam War proved war photography could sway public opinion against a war.
Famous war photos from the Vietnam era include one of a little girl running as she burned from a napalm attack and one of the massacre of Vietnamese villagers by U.S. troops in My Lai.
In recent years, war photography has covered the Gulf War and the invasion of Iraq. In both cases, war photos influenced both supporters and protestors of the wars.
Combat Photography DangersCombat photographers place themselves in great danger to capture pictures of war. Although international law protects journalists and photographers, both are still targets in a war zone.
In addition to the dangers inherent to a war zone, war photographers are sometimes deliberately targeted, abducted or executed. Evidence of this has become clear with the abduction of journalists during the Iraqi War.
War Photography SubjectsWar photos cover a wide range of subjects, both on and off the battlefield. Pictures of war and combat are only one possible subject for war photography. Often combat photography shows images of the aftermath of conflict, depicting destroyed buildings and casualties.
Combat photography has been accused of desensitizing the public to scenes of violence and death. However, many war photos attempt to put a human face on war. Such war photos might include a portrait of an exhausted soldier, civilians fleeing a hot zone or the sad features of a child caught in a war zone.
While the subjects of war photography are varied in nature, pictures of prisoners of war (POWs) are considered to be off-limits to this genre. Although military groups do air photos of captured prisoners, war photos of POWs are considered an unnecessary humiliation.
Terrorist groups operating in Iraq have broadcast images of captured American military personnel to the outrage of the American public. American forces themselves came under fire for publishing a photo of Saddam Hussein after his capture.
War Photography and the PublicWar photography can have powerful effects on the general public. Sometimes war photos reinforce the belief that the war is justified, stirring up feelings of patriotism and solidarity within the troops. Such pictures show a country’s forces in a positive light or depict crimes committed by the opposing forces.
However, pictures of war can have the opposite effect, turning public opinion against a military campaign. Vietnam War photos are a prime example.
A steady stream of images of American dead in Vietnam slowly turned popular sentiment against the war, as the public began to believe the war was not worth the lives of so many U.S. soldiers.
Combat photography can also prove that a country’s own soldiers are capable of atrocities, a fact that can quickly turn public sentiment against a war. A country’s public generally wants to believe in the decency of their armed forces. Combat photography that contradicts this belief, such as war photos of the massacre at My Lai, can quickly turn pubic support into public outrage.
War Photography and the MilitaryThe power of combat photography is not lost on military organizations. The right war photos, published at the right time, can either serve as demoralizing propaganda or as a rally for public support.
The history of war photography shows that pictures of war can turn public sentiment against war. As a result, the military tends to see combat photography is a double-edged sword.
During the 20th century, various military and paramilitary groups have attempted to censor or use war photography for their own ends. In countries that value freedom of the press, censorship inevitably brings the military into conflict with journalistic freedom.
To be fair, the military must walk a tightrope: Too little censorship can put military forces in jeopardy on the battlefield or cause them to lose public support. Too much censorship causes the public and journalists to wonder what’s being hidden.
The Gulf War saw the U.S. military attempt to control almost all journalism and combat photography in the war zone. Critics believed that the military was attempting to “sanitize” the war and avoid negative reactions. Similar charges have been made during Operation Freedom in Iraq.
Combat Photography TodayWar photos have often been decried as too gruesome or violent for the public. Attempts by the military (in any country) to control pictures of war have led to what some call a whitewashed portrayal of war.
War photos released of smart bombs striking buildings are not as personal as pictures of dirty, exhausted combatants. Some have claimed military-sanctioned war photos attempt to portray the image of a war without casualties.
One fact remains clear: For better or worse, combat photography influences how we see war and conflict.

Light and Color in Photography

Light and Color in Photography
Light is one of a photographer’s most important considerations. In fact, any photograph captures the effect of light on objects, whether taken in natural light or the warm glow of incandescent light. A photographer who understands how the eye and lens perceive the color spectrum can make full use of light in photography.

The Color Spectrum
Both the natural light of the sun and artificial incandescent light appear white to the naked eye. However, if you shine light through a prism, it splits into a rainbow of colors. This effect shows how the “color” white contains every shade in the color spectrum.

When light hits an object, the object absorbs some of the color spectrum and reflects back the rest of the colors. The portion of the color that is not absorbed by the object but reflected back to eye is the color that the object appears to the human eye. For instance, a white wall reflects most of the color spectrum black. So our eyes (and the camera lens) see white. While a red rose reflects the red portion of the color spectrum and absorbs the rest, a black object absorbs the entire color spectrum.

Natural Light in Color Photography
Natural light in photography is not as consistent as you may think. At different times of the day, different shades of the color spectrum dominate natural light. For instance, at midday, the blue portion of the color spectrum is dominant, producing a “cool” light. Color photography taken at midday produces the clearest, sharpest pictures in bright light.
In contrast, natural light at sunrise and sunset emphasizes the red portion of the color spectrum. Known as warm light in photography, sunrise and sunset light produces warmer pictures with a softer contrast.
Artificial Light in Photography
When photographers use artificial light in photography, the effect of the lighting depends on the type of bulb used. The warm dispersed glow of incandescent light produces an effect that is dramatically different from that produced by the sharp, narrow, focused beam of a street light.
Photographs taken with incandescent light often have a yellow tinge. A photographer can combat this tint in two ways. One method is to use a blue filter to offset the excessive yellowing. If you’re using a film camera instead of a digital one, you can use tungsten film that is designed for professional studio lights. Although it wasn’t intentionally designed with incandescent light in mind, tungsten film reduces the yellow tones so often found in indoor color photography.
Florescent lights produce a diffuse light that often translates into greenish tinges in color photography. Using a fluorescent or daytime filter helps remove this unappealing color.
Street lamps, like florescent lights, may cause a greenish tint in the resulting pictures. However, a photographer can use this effect to his advantage: in the darkness, this greenish quality can produce mysterious or ghostly effects.
Diffuse and Direct Light in Photography
The direction of light in photography is important: different angles of light produce different shadows, changing the appearance of your subject.
Light in photography may be diffuse or direct. Direct light, such as light from the noon sun, hits the subject from one direction. If you’re looking for high contrast between light and shadows, direct light is a good choice.
On the other hand, diffuse light hits the subject from several directions. Florescent lighting is one example of diffuse light in photography. The loss of contrast that diffuse light produces mutes colors and softens the image.
Digital Cameras and Light in Photography
Digital cameras come with specialized light settings. Here are some of the common settings:
auto: when you want the camera to adapt to changing light
cloudy: for outdoor use in cloudy or overcast skies
daylight or sunny: for outdoors and bright sunlight
flash: for taking pictures with the flash
fluorescent: for scenes lit by fluorescent lights
incandescent or tungsten: for incandescent lighting
manual: when you want to manage the lighting of each shot. This requires that the photographer aim the camera at white paper to change the lighting settings manually.

Color Photography or Black and White?
While lighting is important for color photography, it is even more important for black and white or sepia photography. While this fact seems counterintuitive, the lack of color means that the key feature of black and white photography is the contrast between light and shadow.
The basic rules of light in photography apply to black and white photos just as they do to color photography. For example, direct light creates a higher contrast than diffuse light. Because the contrast between light and shadow is much more obvious in black and white than in color photography, the photographer should opt for direct light when composing the shot.